Peptides for skin and aging
From GHK-Cu to Argireline: the glow peptides of skincare and the tanning ones, and which are only cosmetics.
Melanotan II
Copies alpha-MSH, the skin-darkening hormone, at melanocortin receptors in skin and brain: sold for a sunless tan, plus libido.
The Devil · Not FDA approved
GHK-Cu
GHK, three amino acids found in blood, clasping a copper atom; in serums, meant to spur fibroblasts, the skin's collagen makers.
The Star · Cosmetic and topical
Afamelanotide
For people whom light burns from within: a stronger alpha-MSH, the tanning hormone, switching on MC1R in pigment cells.
FDA approved
Argireline
Copies the end of SNAP-25, the protein nerves use to release their signal to muscle. Sold in creams to relax expression lines.
Cosmetic and topical
Bacitracin
Ring peptides from soil Bacillus that stop other bacteria building their cell walls. A first-aid ointment for cuts and scrapes.
FDA approved
Biopeptide EL
VGVAPG, the sequence that repeats in elastin, the skin's stretchy protein, on a fatty tail. Sold to restore firmness and bounce.
Cosmetic and topical
Carnosine
A dipeptide made by your muscles and brain, sold in creams as an antioxidant that shields collagen from glycation, sugar damage.
Cosmetic and topical
Collaxyl
Collagen's greatest hit in six amino acids, GPQGPQ, sold to cue fibroblasts, the cells that build collagen, to make more of it.
Cosmetic and topical
Dalbavancin & Co.
Vancomycin's cousins, fitted with a fatty tail to anchor to bacteria and linger. One or two drips treat MRSA skin infections.
FDA approved
Daptomycin
A soil-bacteria lipopeptide that punctures staph membranes, MRSA included, in skin, blood and heart. The lungs' lining disarms it.
FDA approved
Difelikefalin
Switches on kappa opioid receptors, not morphine's mu, and is built to stay out of the brain. Treats itch in people on dialysis.
FDA approved
Ecallantide
Blocks plasma kallikrein, the enzyme that frees bradykinin, which makes vessels leak. Stops attacks of hereditary angioedema.
FDA approved
Eyeseryl
Four amino acids that start like carnosine, sold in eye creams to drain the fluid that puffs under-eye bags. Carry-on only.
Cosmetic and topical
Glutathione
Every cell's main antioxidant, a tripeptide that mops up free radicals. Now sold in IV drips for lighter skin, at brunch prices.
In clinical trials
Icatibant
Bradykinin, the swelling molecule, rebuilt to block its own B2 receptor, so vessels stop leaking. For hereditary angioedema.
FDA approved
Injectable GHK-Cu
Found in human plasma, this copper-binding tripeptide moved from creams to injections, sold to renew skin, hair and tissue.
Not FDA approved
Leuphasyl
Leu-enkephalin, a natural opioid, stabilized by one mirror-image amino acid. Sold beside Argireline to relax expression lines.
Cosmetic and topical
LTX-315
Built from lactoferricin, a microbe-killer in cow's milk. Injected into tumors, it bursts cancer cells, meant to rouse immunity.
Not FDA approved
Matrixyl
KTTKS, a procollagen fragment, on a fatty tail to enter skin. Sold to cue fibroblasts, the collagen-making cells, to make more.
Cosmetic and topical
Matrixyl Synthe'6
Three amino acids on a palmitic tail; its maker says it boosts six molecules of the skin's scaffold at once. Hence the 6.
Cosmetic and topical
Melanostatine
The anti-Melanotan: it blocks MC1R, the receptor alpha-MSH uses to make pigment cells darken skin. Sold to fade dark spots.
Cosmetic and topical
Melanotan I
The same tanning-hormone copy as afamelanotide, switching on MC1R in pigment cells, but sold online in vials as a tanning shot.
Not FDA approved
Oligopeptide-1
Human EGF, epidermal growth factor, a whole 53-amino-acid protein, sold in serums to make skin regenerate the way a wound closes.
Cosmetic and topical
Rigin
GQPR on a palmitic tail; its maker says it derives from immunoglobulin G. Sold to calm the low-grade inflammation that ages skin.
Cosmetic and topical
Syn-Ake
Venom-free mimic of waglerin-1, a temple viper peptide that blocks muscle's receptor for nerve signals. Sold for frown lines.
Cosmetic and topical